Encyclopedia of coastal science/Энциклопедия прибрежной науки

Издание на английском языке
This two-volume set is an update or upgrade to the original Encyclopedia of Coastal Science that was edited by Maurice Schwartz (Western Washington University, Bellingham, Washington, USA). The first edition, a mammoth volume of 1211 pages, was published in 2005 by Springer. At that time, Rhodes W. Fairbridge (Columbia University, New York City, New York, USA) was the Series Editor of the Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series. Rhodes was the founding editor of the Series with the first volume (The Encyclopedia of Oceanography) appearing in 1966 under the imprimatur of the Van Nostrand Reinhold Company (New York). Interestingly, Maurice Schwartz received his doctoral degree under the tutelage of Dr. Fairbridge while investigating geomorphological, sedimentological, and geospatial relationships of sandy beaches resulting from sea-level rise within the purview of field observations, wave tank experiments, and conceptual frameworks initially worked out and formalized by Per Bruun. Upon concluding his studies, Maurice codified some basic principles in his dissertation into what he called the “Bruun Rule,” which today still evokes appreciation, speculation, and sometimes even contention.

Contents
Dedication
About the Editors
Contributors
Preface to the Second Edition
Preface to the First Edition
Accretion and Erosion Waves on Beaches. Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins
Africa, Coastal Ecology. Anton McLachlan
Africa, Coastal Geomorphology. Antony R. Orme
Algal Rims. Jacques Laborel
Alluvial-Plain Coasts. Daniel F. Belknap
Altimeter Surveys, Coastal Tides, and Shelf Circulation. Guoqi Han
Antarctica, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology. Andrew McMinn
Aquaculture. Robert R. Stickney
Archaeology. Lucille Lewis Johnson
Archaeology and Sea-Level Change. Niki Evelpidou and Anna Karkani
Arctic, Coastal Ecology. Jean-Fran?ois Hamel and Annie Mercier
Arctic, Coastal Geomorphology. H. Jesse Walker
Artificial Islands. Marcel J. F. Stive
Asia, Eastern, Coastal Ecology. Donald Macintosh
Asia, Eastern, Coastal Geomorphology. D. Eisma
Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology. Paul Sanlaville and Abel Prieur
Asteroid-Impact Coasts. Rhodes W. Fairbridge
Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology. Annie Mercier and Jean-Fran?ois Hamel
Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology. J. D. Hansom
Atolls. David Hopley
Australia, Coastal Ecology. Karen S. Edyvane
Australia, Coastal Geomorphology. Eric Bird
Barrier. Eric Bird
Barrier Island Formation and Development Modes. Ervin G. Otvos
Barrier Island Landforms. Ilya V. Buynevich and Duncan M. FitzGerald
BARS. Brian Greenwood
Bay Beaches. Karl F. Nordstrom and Nancy L. Jackson
Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation. Robin Davidson-Arnott
Beach Awards and Certifications. Camilo M. Botero
Beach Drainage. Alessandra Saponieri
Beach Environmental Quality. Camilo M. Botero, Ganivetth Manjarres, Elin Marquez and Cristina I. Pereira
Beach Erosion. Edward J. Anthony
Beach Features. Michael J. Chrzastowski
Beach Management Tools. Camilo M. Botero and Carlos Pereira da Silva
Beach Nourishment. Charles W. Finkl and H. Jesse Walker
Beach Processes. John R. Dingler
Beach Profile. Nicholas C. Kraus
Beach Ridges. Ervin G. Otvos
Beach Safety Research. Robert W. Brander
Beach Sediment Characteristics. Alan S. Trenhaile
Beach Stratigraphy. Toru Tamura and Yoshiki Saito
Beach Use and Behaviors. Niels West
Beachrock. Robert J. Turner
Beaufort Wind Scale. Dilip K. Barua
Bioconstruction. William T. Fox
Bioengineered Shore Protection. Kevin R. Hall
Bioerosion. William T. Fox
Biogeomorphology. Martin J. Baptist
Bioherms and Biostromes. Jacques Laborel
Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology. Yuri Dolotov and Pavel Kaplin
Bogs. Martyn Waller
Boulder Barricades. Peter S. Rosen
Boulder Beaches. John McKenna
Boulder Pavements. J. D. Hansom
Capping of Contaminated Coastal Areas. Ram K. Mohan
Carbonate Beaches. Andrew D. Short
Caribbean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology. Gillian Cambers
Carrying Capacity in Coastal Areas. M. MacLeod and J. Andrew G. Cooper
Cave and Karst in Coastal Settings. Michael J. Lace
Cays. Scott Smithers and David Hopley
Chalk Coasts. Vincent May
Changing Sea Levels. Nils-Axel Morner
Cheniers. Ervin G. Otvos
Cliffed Coasts. Alan S. Trenhaile
Cliffs, Erosion Rates. Tsuguo Sunamura
Cliffs, Lithology Versus Erosion Rates. Tsuguo Sunamura
Climate Patterns in the Coastal Zone. Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins
Coastal Barrier Preservation and Destruction. Ervin G. Otvos
Coastal Boundaries. Celene Milanes Batista
Coastal Changes, Gradual. B. G. Thom and P. J. Cowell
Coastal Changes, Rapid. David B. Scott
Coastal Climate. David Greenland
Coastal Currents. Guy Gelfenbaum
Coastal Dynamics. Nils-Axel Morner
Coastal Erosion. Nils-Axel Morner and Charles W. Finkl
Coastal Erosion Management. Nelson Rangel-Buitrago and William J. Neal
Coastal Evolution in Microtidal Seas in Holocene. Kazimierz Furmanczyk
Coastal Flood Hazard Mapping. Celene Milanes Batista
Coastal Hazard Indicators. Oscar Ferreira
Coastal Hoodoos. Shin Wang
Coastal Lake Systems. Anja M. Scheffers and Dieter H. Kelletat
Coastal Management Practices. Frank van der Meulen and Bert van der Valk
Coastal Modeling. Honghai Li
Coastal Risk. Celene Milanes Batista
Coastal Scenery. A. T. Williams, Nelson Rangel-Buitrago, E. Pranzini, Giorgio Anfuso and Camilo M. Botero
Coastal Seafloor Geomorphological Features, Classification. Charles W. Finkl and Christopher Makowski
Coastal Sedimentary Facies. H. Edward Clifton
Coastal Soils. Charles W. Finkl
Coastal Subsidence. Zhongyuan Chen and John Rybczyk
Coastal Temperature Trends. George A. Maul
Coastal Upwelling and Downwelling. Dilip K. Barua
Coastal Warfare. Peter L. Guth
Coastal Wells. Yaacov Nir
Coastal Wind Effects. Terry R. Healy
Coastline Changes. Eric Bird
Coasts, Coastlines, Shores, and Shorelines. George F. Oertel
Cohesive Sediment Transport. Parmeshwar L. Shrestha and Alan F. Blumberg
Conservation of Coastal Sites. Vincent May
Continental Shelves. A. W. Niedoroda
Coral Reef Coasts. Charles R. C. Sheppard
Coral Reef Islands. Gisele Muller-Parker
Coral Reefs. Scott Smithers and David Hopley
Coral Reefs, Emerged. David Hopley
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport. Richard J. Seymour
Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on Beaches. Philip D. Osborne
Cuspate Forelands. Stephen J. Craig-Smith
Dalmatian Coasts. Dieter H. Kelletat
Dams, Effect on Coasts. Jiyu Chen
Deltaic Ecology. John Rybczyk
Deltas. Shea Penland and Mark A. Kulp
Demography of Coastal Populations. George A. Maul and Iver W. Duedall
Depth of Closure on Sandy Coasts. Andrew Morang and William A. Birkemeier
Depth of Disturbance. John P. Ahrens
Desalination. Benedicte Cherbuy and Jean-Christophe Aznar
Desert Coasts. Rodman E. Snead
Developed Coasts. Nancy L. Jackson and Karl F. Nordstrom
Dikes. Pieter G. E. F. Augustinus
Dissipative Beaches. Douglas J. Sherman
Dredging of Coastal Environments. Per Bruun
Drift and Swash Alignments. Eric Bird
Driftwood. Thomas A. Terich
Dune Ridges. Terry R. Healy
Dynamic Equilibrium of Beaches. Robert G. Dean
Economics of Beaches. William B. Stronge
El Nino-Southern Oscillation (ENSO). Henry F. Diaz
Endogenic and Exogenic Factors. Henry Bokuniewicz
Energy and Sediment Budgets of the Global Coastal Zone. Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins
Engineering Applications of Coastal Geomorphology. John R. C. Hsu
Environmental Quality. Michael J. Kennish
Eolian Processes. Patrick A. Hesp
Eolianite. Eric Bird
Erosion of Coastal Systems. Luciana S. Esteves
Erosion Processes. Michael R. Rampino
Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting. Mark Crowell, Stephen P. Leatherman and Bruce Douglas
Estuaries. Terry R. Healy
Estuaries: Anthropogenic Impacts. Michael J. Kennish
Europe, Coastal Ecology. J. Pat Doody
Europe, Coastal Geomorphology. Anja M. Scheffers and Dieter H. Kelletat
Eustasy. Vivien Gornitz
Eustasy and Sea Level. Ervin G. Otvos
Faulted Coasts. Roland P. Paskoff
Geochronology. Gerhard Schellmann, Helmut Br?ckner and Dominik Brill
Geodesy. Mike P. Stewart
Geographic Information Systems (GIS). Shawn M. Boeser and Sarah M. Hamylton
Geographical Coastal Zonality. Dieter H. Kelletat
Geohydraulic Research Centers. James R. Houston
Geomorphology and Sea Level. Niki Evelpidou
Geotextile Applications. Ram K. Mohan and C. G. R. Nair
Glaciated Coasts. Daniel F. Belknap
Global Positioning Systems (GPS). Shawn M. Boeser
Global Vulnerability Analysis. Robert J. Nicholls and Frank M. J. Hoozemans
Gravel Barriers. Julian D. Orford
Gravel Beaches. David P. Simpson, Jon Williams and Younes Nouri
Gross Transport. Richard J. Seymour
Ground-Penetrating Radar. Ilya V. Buynevich and Duncan M. FitzGerald
Gulf Shorelines, Last Eustatic Cycle. Ervin G. Otvos
Headland-Bay Beach. Luis J. Moreno
Health Benefits. Roger H. Charlier, Marie Claire P. Chaineux and Charles W. Finkl
History of Coastal Geomorphology. H. Jesse Walker and Molly McGraw
History, Coastal Ecology. J. Pat Doody
History, Coastal Protection. Roger H. Charlier and Charles W. Finkl
Holocene Coastal Geomorphology. Dieter H. Kelletat
Holocene Epoch. Neil Roberts
Honeycomb Weathering. George Mustoe
Human Impact on Coasts. Richard A. Davis Jr.
Hydrology of the Coastal Zone. Nick Cartwright and Diane P. Horn
Ice-Bordered Coasts. H. Jesse Walker
Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Ecology. Baban Ingole
Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Geomorphology. G. N. Nayak
Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology. M. Wafar, Sayeeda Wafar and Prasanna Yennavar
Ingression, Regression, and Transgression. Henry Bokuniewicz
Isostasy. Kurt Lambeck
Jet Probes. Lindino A. Benedet and Charles W. Finkl
Karst Coasts. Roland P. Paskoff
Klint. Anto Raukas
Last Interglacial. Ervin G. Otvos
Late Quaternary Marine Transgression. Nils-Axel Mоrner
Lifesaving and Beach Safety. B. Chris Brewster
Littoral. Henry Bokuniewicz
Littoral Cells. Douglas L. Inman
Littoral Drift Gradient. Terry R. Healy
Longshore Sediment Transport. Richard J. Seymour
Machair. William Ritchie
Managed Retreat. William J. Neal, David M. Bush and Orrin H. Pilkey
Mangroves, Ecology. Francois Blasco, M. Aizpuru and J. Besnehard
Mangroves, Geomorphology. Eric Bird
Mangroves, Remote Sensing. Francois Blasco, M. Aizpuru and D. Din Ndongo
Marine Debris-Onshore, Offshore, and Seafloor Litter. D. T. Tudor and A. T Williams
Marine Litter. A. T. Williams
Marine Parks. Vincent May
Marine Terraces. Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Mass Wasting. Alan S. Trenhaile
Meteorological Effects on Coasts. Gregory W. Stone and Robert A. Muller
Microtidal Coasts. J. Andrew G. Cooper
Middle America, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology. Alejandro Yаnez-Arancibia
Mining of Coastal Materials. W. R. Osterkamp and R. A. Morton
Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution. Douglas L. Inman, Scott A. Jenkins and Patricia M. Masters
Modes and Patterns of Shoreline Change. Francis A. Galgano and Stephen P. Leatherman
Monitoring Coastal Ecology. J. Pat Doody
Monitoring Coastal Geomorphology. Andrew Morang and Laurel T. Gorman Morphodynamic Stability of Tidal Inlet-Bay Systems. Ashish J. Mehta and Earl J. Hayter
Muddy Coasts. Terry R. Healy
Natural Hazards. Vivien Gornitz
Navigation Structures. Nicholas C. Kraus
Nearshore Geomorphological Mapping. Charles W. Finkl and Christopher Makowski Nearshore Sediment Transport
Measurement. Ping Wang
Nearshore Wave Measurement. Ping Wang, Gregory W. Stone and Jun Cheng
Net Transport. Richard J. Seymour
New Zealand, Coastal Ecology. Russell Cole and Conrad Pilditch
New Zealand, Coastal Geomorphology and Oceanography. Terry R. Healy
North America, Coastal Ecology. Michael S. Kearney and J. Court Stevenson
North America, Coastal Geomorphology. Douglas J. Sherman
Notches. Dieter H. Kelletat
Offshore Sand Banks and Linear Sand Ridges. Randolph A. McBride
Offshore Sand Sheets. Michael S. Fenster
Oil Spills. Erich R. Gundlach
Oil Spills, High-Energy Coasts. William Ritchie
Open-Coast Tidal Flat Deposits. Ping Wang, Congxian Li and Jun Cheng
Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology. Mark D. Merlin
Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology. Patrick D. Nunn
Paired Baymouth Spits. Javier Alcantara-Carri?, Michel Michaelovitch de Mahiques and Luana Portz
Paleocoastlines. John C. Kraft
Paraglacial Coasts. Donald L. Forbes
Peat. Ian Shennan
Photogrammetry. E. Robert Thieler and Cheryl J. Hapke
Physical Models. Michael S. Bruno
Placer Deposits. Paul D. Komar
Pleistocene Epoch. Dieter H. Kelletat
Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits. Detlef A. Warnke and Hillert Ibbeken
Polders. Joost H. J. Terwindt
Pressure Gradient Force. George A. Maul
RADARSAT-2. Gordon C. Staples
Rating Beaches. Stephen P. Leatherman
Reclamation. P. P. Wong
Reefs, Non-coral. William T. Fox
Reflective Beaches. Douglas J. Sherman
Remote Sensing of Coastal Environments. Elijah W. Ramsey III
Remote Sensing: Wetlands Classification. Victor V. Klemas
Rhodoliths. Markes E. Johnson
Rhythmic Patterns. Paul D. Komar
Ria. Eric Bird
Rip Currents. Robert W. Brander
Ripple Marks. Carl L. Amos, Hachem Kassem and Patrick L. Friend
Rock Coast Processes. Alan S. Trenhaile
Salt Marsh. Terry R. Healy
Sand Mining. Carl H. Hobbs III
Sand Rights. Katherine Stone, Orville Magoon, Billy Edge and Lesley Ewing
Sandy Coasts. Andrew D. Short
Scour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water. Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins
Seabed Roughness of Coastal Waters. Dilip K. Barua
Sea-Level and Climate Change. John A. Church
Sea-Level Fluctuations over the Last Millennium. Phil J. Watson
Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic. Jacques Laborel and Fran?oise Laborel-Deguen
Sea-Level Indicators, Geomorphic. Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Sea-Level Indicators: Biological in Depositional Sequences. David B. Scott and Franco S. Medioli
Sediment Budget. Jeffrey H. List
Sediment Suspension by Waves. Rowland J. Atkins
Sedimentary Basins. Saskia Jelgersma
Seismic Displacement. Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Sequence Stratigraphy. Arthur D. Donovan
Setbacks. Michael S. Fenster
Sharm Coasts. Dieter H. Kelletat
Shelf Processes. A. W. Niedoroda
Shell Middens. Sarah K. Campbell
Shore Platforms. Wayne Stephenson and Robert Kirk
Shore Protection Structures. Nicholas C. Kraus
Shoreface. H. Edward Clifton
Shoreline and Coastal Terrain Mapping. A. Perez-Alberti, A. Pires and H. I. Chamine
Shoreline Response to Littoral Drift Barriers. Max Barton and Sally Brown
Simple Beach and Surf Zone Models. John P. Ahrens
Small Islands. George A. Maul
South America, Coastal Ecology. Andre S. Barreto, Simone Rabelo da Cunha, Omar Defeo, Anita de Alava, Rosana Moreira da Rocha, Beatrice Padovani Ferreira, Mauro Maida, Mоnica M. P. Tognella-De-Rosa, Carlos Emilio Bemvenuti and Joel C. Creed
South America, Coastal Geomorphology. Norbert P. Psuty and Chizuko Mizobe
Spits. Takaaki Uda
Storm Surge. Vivien Gornitz
Strandflat. Tormod Klemsdal
Submarine Groundwater Discharge. Steven L. Krupa and Cynthia J. Gefvert
Submerged Coasts. Wyss Wai-shu Yim
Submerging Coasts. Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Surf Modeling. Marshall D. Earle
Surf Zone Processes. William R. Dally
Surfing. William R. Dally
Swash Zone Dynamics. Tom Baldock Synthetic Aperture Radar
Systems. Keith Raney
Tafone. George Mustoe
Tectonics and Neotectonics. Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Thalassostatic Terraces. Rhodes W. Fairbridge
Thermal Expansion. Nils-Axel Mоrner
Tidal Creeks. Terry R. Healy
Tidal Datums. Edward B. Hands
Tidal Environments. B. W. Flemming
Tidal Flats. V. Semeniuk
Tidal Inlets. Duncan M. FitzGerald and Ilya V. Buynevich
Tidal Power. Roger H. Charlier and Charles W. Finkl
Tidal Prism. Terry M. Hume
Tide Gauges. Guy Woppelmann and Paolo A. Pirazzoli
Tide Mill. Roger H. Charlier and Charles W. Finkl
Tide-Dominated Coasts. Miles O. Hayes
Tides. Bruce Parker
Time Series Modeling. V. Chris Lakhan
Tors. Maurice Schwartz
Tourism and Coastal Development. Marc L. Miller and Nina P. Hadley
Tourism, Criteria for Coastal Sites. P. P. Wong
Tourist Beaches. Camilo M. Botero, Juan A. Cabrera and Seweryn Zielinski
Tracers and Coarse Sediment. Paolo Ciavola and Edoardo Grottoli
Trottoirs. Scott Smithers and David Hopley
Tsunami Deposits. Nils-Axel Morner
Uplift Coasts. Terry R. Healy
Vegetated Coasts. Denise J. Reed
Vibracore. Charles W. Finkl and Syed M. Khalil
Volcanic Coasts. Terry R. Healy
Vorticity. George A. Maul
Washover Effects. William Ritchie
Water Quality. Katherine Pond
Wave Climate. George A. Maul
Wave Environments. Andrew D. Short
Wave Focusing. Terry R. Healy
Wave Hindcasting. Dilip K. Barua
Wave Power. Roger H. Charlier and Charles W. Finkl
Wave Refraction Diagrams. Gerhard Masselink
Wave-Current Interaction. Patricia L. Wiberg
Wave-Dominated Coasts. Miles O. Hayes
Waves. Gerhard Masselink
Wave-Tide-Dominated Coasts. Edward J. Anthony
Weathering in the Coastal Zone. Rhodes W. Fairbridge
Wetland Restoration. William Streever
Wetlands. Denise J. Reed
Appendix 1: Conversion Tables
Appendix 2: Glossary of Coastal Geomorphology
Author Index
Subject Index